Repair Blade 400




How to Repair Your Blade 400 Helicopter



The good thing about ready to fly rc helicopters like the Blade 400 is you don’t have to build them! The bad thing about ready to fly rc helicopters is you don’t have to build them! This means, when it comes time to repair crash damage, you don’t know what all of the parts do and where they all go.

Although, the Blade 400 is fairly simple, it can be somewhat intimidating to a new pilot, especially when you look in the manual at the parts listing and see all of those parts.

Fear not! With a little help from this website, you will learn how to take apart, put back together and repair your Blade 400.

The most common types of crash damages are:
  • Blade strikes into something (ground, tree, car, house, neighbor’s dog, etc...). This means replacing the Blades and most probably the Feathering Shaft, Main Shaft, Servo Gears and possibly the Main Gear.
  • Blade strikes into the Boom (AKA Boom Strike). This means replacing the above mentioned Blades, Feathering Shaft, Main Shaft, Servo Gears, Main Gear, Boom and maybe even the Tail Rotor Belt.
  • Tail Rotor strikes into something (ground, tree, car, house, neighbor’s dog, girl friend / boy friend, etc...). This means replacing the Tail Rotor Blades, Tail Rotor Shaft, possibly the Servo Gears, one or both bearings and sleeping on the sofa.
I was just joking about your neighbor’s dog. In any event (CRASH), you will notice that it’s usually the same parts, more-or-less! So, here they are:







Main Blades

After a crash or "hard landing", or even just as periodic maintenance, it’s a good idea to inspect your Feathering Shaft, Main Shaft and Blade Grips.



In order to do this you must first remove the main blades.

Using the middle size wrench that came with your helicopter,



remove the Main Blade screws. (Reference Number 26 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1416)



By the way; I like to sit on the floor when working on my helicopter, this way I don’t have to worry about dropping any of these SMALL screws onto the floor and loosing them!

After the screws are out, remove the Blades. Be careful not to lose the nuts!

Now that the Blades are off, we are going to remove the Feathering Shaft, or as some like to call it, the Spindle.


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Feathering Shaft

Feathering – as in what birds wear.

Shaft – as in you got the shaft. And I hope you did! If not, you can buy it from your LHS (Local Hobby Shop) or online. For around $4.50 you get 2 of them.



The Feathering Shaft runs through the Rotor Housing (Also known as the Head Block. Reference Number 8 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1422). It connects both Main Blades together and usually takes a lot of the stress when a blade strike occurs. Therefore, after a blade stike, it is very important to check and replace it if necessary.



You should remove the Push Rods from the Bell Mixer Arm first (Reference Number 13 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1418) and then remove both screws at each end of the shaft (Reference Number 28 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1473).

Using the 2 small wrenches that came with your helicopter, remove the screws at the same time.



Be careful not to lose any of the pieces.

Removing and reinstalling the Feathering Shaft is one of the more difficult repairs. Not because it’s hard to do but because of the number of pieces involved. The manual makes it really hard to identify all of those pieces, so I will do it for you.



Reference Number Description Item Number
9 Feathering Shaft EFLH1421
15 Main Rotor Blade Grip EFLH1417
16 Bearing 3x6x2.5mm EFLH1115
17 Thrust Bearing 3x8x3.5mm EFLH1420
18 Washer 2x5x2.5mm EFLH1473
20 Step Washer 2x3x2mm EFLH1473
25 O-Ring EFLH1158
27 Washer/Shim 5x8x0.1mm EFLH1420
28 Socket Head Cap Screw M2x6mm EFLH1473


When inserting the Thrust Bearing, make sure that the indented sides of the outer pieces (known as the Bearing Races) face the inner piece (known as the bearing cage).



Build one Blade Grip first, attach it to the Feathering Shaft and insert it into the Head Block.



When inserting the Step Washer, make sure that the step side (the higher smaller side) faces the screw head and not the O-Ring. If the step faces the O-Ring, it will wear it down.





While on the subject of the O-Ring, these function as dampeners and wear out quite quickly. You should make it a part of your normal maintenance to replace them.

Now complete the second Blade Grip and attach it to the Feathering Shaft.

Don't forget to put the push rods back onto the Bell Mixer Arm.

When viewing the helicopter from the left side, the short side of the Bell Mixer Arm should face the front of the helicopter.



This section of the helicopter is under a tremendous amount of stress, with its turning, rotating and vibrating. Many pilots are worried about the Feathering Shaft screws coming lose and the Blades flying off. Indeed, if the screws did come lose the Blade Grips and everything attached would fly off. Because of this, I have heard some pilots suggest using a thread lock solution on these screws. Please don’t use any thread lock on these screws. THAT MEANS DON’T DO IT! Putting thread lock here could easily spread into the other parts causing the Washers, Bearings, Shaft, etc… to lockup. Instead, I recommend that you periodically check the tightness of the screws and tighten when needed. I check mine before each day I fly. On long days you can check them after a couple of batteries. It’s a good idea to inspect your helicopter often anyway.

Well that’s it for the Feathering Shaft. Good Job! Now we will move onto the Main Shaft.


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Main Shaft

After any crash it's a good idea to remove and inspect your Main Shaft (Reference Number 50 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1447). Because of the high torque involved in Main Blade rotation, there’s a very good chance that the shaft has suffered damage and is bent to some degree.

A Main Shaft, even with the slightest bend can cause undesirable flight characteristics and lead to further damage to the helicopter. It should be replaced before your next flight.

Replacing the Main Shaft is relatively easy. To begin, remove the Main Blades if you have not already done so.

Next, remove the 3 pushrods connecting the Swash Plate to the Servos (Reference Numbers 56, 64 & 99 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1438).



Now remove the screw that connects the Head Block to the top of the Main Shaft.



If the screw has been damaged from the crash, replace it with a new one.



Carefully remove the entire Head Block, Washout Base and Swash Plate assembly.



Next remove the screw that connects the Main Shaft to the Main Tail Drive Gear (Reference Number 74 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1473).

Becareful not to lose the nut.



Pull the Main Shaft out from the top of the helicopter and remove the Main Shaft Retaining Collar.



With the Retaining Collar off of the shaft, roll the Main Shaft on a flat surface and check for any bends. If the shaft is not 100% strait, it should be replaced.

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Main Gear and Main Tail Drive Gear

Once the Main Shaft has been removed, you can easily remove both the Main Gear and Main Tail Drive Gear for inspection and replacement, should they be damaged (Reference Number 72 & 75 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1451 & EFLH1453).

Simply remove the gears by pulling them out through the side of the helicopter.





Inspect the gears for missing or damaged teeth.



Replace the bad gear and reconnect the Main Gear and the Main Tail Drive Gear.



Carefully reinsert the Main Gear Set back into the helicopter.



Insert the Main Shaft into the helicopter. There are 2 holes in the main shaft, insert the shaft with the hole farthest from the shaft edge facing down and align the hole in the Main Tail Drive Gear with the hole in the Main Shaft.



Replace the screw connecting the Main Shaft to the Main Tail Drive Gear and tighten.



Getting the nut onto the screw can be a little tricky; the location is too small for your fingers to fit, so I like to use the screw driver that came with the helicopter to hold the nut. I just push the nut onto the end of the screw partway in.


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Servo Gears

Servo Gears can be very easily damaged even in the smallest of crashes or hard landings. The Gears can also strip under aggressive 3D flying or over time under normal flying. Therefore, it’s a good idea to perform a preflight check on all of your servos each and every time you take to the air.

To check your servos, with your battery disconnected, gently move your servo arm through all of its range of motion. Feel and listen for any skipping of teeth on the gears. Also, make sure that there is no binding of any of the pushrods.



If you detect any skipping of the teeth, you must either replace the servo or the bad gear or gears inside the servo. I suggest replacing the gear. It is considerably less expensive to replace the Gear Set than it is to replace the entire servo.

Remove the servo and unscrew the 4 screws on the backside of the servo.



The servo housing is in 3 separate pieces. You do not have to remove the screws entirely but only slide them out far enough to remove the front section of the housing.



After removing the font housing, inspect each gear and remove any damaged gears.



Replace the damaged gears with new gears.



Reinstall the front housing and tighten down. Reinstall the servo.



Alright, see repairing the servos isn’t as bad as you thought, is it? Great job!

Well, that’s about it for the front half of the helicopter, now we are going to tackle repairing the back half.


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Tail Rotor Blades

Replacing the Tail Rotor Blades (Reference Number 119 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1471) is very easy to do.



Just remove the screw and then the blade.


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Tail Rotor Shaft and Bearings

In the event of a tail strike, you should inspect the Tail Rotor Shaft and Bearings (Reference Number 126 and 128 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1465 and EFLH1464) and replace if necessary.

To remove the Tail Rotor Shaft, begin by disconnecting the Tail pushrod from the Tail Rotor Pitch Level.



Remove the 2 screws connecting the Vertical Stabilizer Fin (Reference Number 133 and 134. EFLH1472Y and EFLH1473).



Remove the screws connecting the Tail Case to the Tail Boom.



Seperate the Right half of the Tail Case from the Left half, being careful not to lose any of the pieces.



Tail Rotor Shaft Components.



Reference Number Description Item Number
126 Tail Rotor Shaft EFLH1465
129 Tail Rotor Shaft Drive Pulley EFLH1465
130 Tail Rotor Shaft Drive Pulley Cap EFLH1465
131 Spacer 3x4x3.5mm EFLH1465


Check the Tail Rotor Shaft components and replace as necessary.


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Tail Boom

Uh O! The dreaded Boom Strike.



Don’t worry, now that you know how to remove the Tail Rotor components, replacing the Boom is a piece of cake.

If you haven’t already removed the Tail Rotor Case, do so now.

Remove the Horizontal Stabilizer Fin (Reference Number 108 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1472).



Remove the Tail Servo Boom Mount (Reference Number 102 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1458).



Now remove the 4 screws that secure the Tail Boom to the helicopter body.

Carefully remove the Tail Boom.



Now thread the Trail Drive Belt (Reference Number 104 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1456) through the Boom. I am using a steal fishing leader to help thread the Belt.



Be sure you remember to slip on the Tail Pushrod Support Guides (Reference Numbers 105 and 114 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1460).

Replace the Right side Tail Rotor Case and position the Drive Belt.



Replace the Left Rotor Case and insert and tighten down the rear screw.



Now pull back on the Tail Rotor Case until it locks into place and tightens down the Drive Belt.

Reconnect the Horizontal Stabilizer, Vertical Stabilizer and Tail Servo Boom Mount.

Reconnect the Tail Rotor Pushrod and insert it into the Pushrod Support Guides.


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Tail Drive Belt and Pulley Assembly

It is normal for the Tail Drive Belt (Reference Number 104 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1456) to wear out over time.

Abnormal wear can be caused if your belt tension is too lose by allowing the belt to skip across the teeth of the Tail Drive Pulley (Reference Number 092 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1455) or if your belt is too tight by putting too much tension on the pulley teeth. The latter can also severely damage the pulley.

In this section you will learn how to replace both, the Tail Drive Belt and the Tail Drive Pulley assembly.

Not to scare you but this is the hardest repair of all. That said, if you have successfully accomplished all of the previous repairs, you will have no problems with this one. To perform this repair, you will use the skills you gained in the previous topics.

To begin, here are the things you have to do first.

Remove the following:

After removing the above, remove the rudder servo.



Now remove the Tail Drive Shaft Lower Bearing Block (Reference Number 079 in your Blade 400 Parts List. EFLH1454).

There are 2 screws on each side of the helicopter.



Carefully remove the Tail Drive Shaft and Tail Drive Shaft Block.



Inspect the Tail Drive Shaft for worn or damaged teeth and replace if necessary.



Now insert the new belt through the boom hole.



Reinsert the Tail Drive Shaft and Block through the rear of the main frame.

Hold the belt so that there is a loop at the end and position the Tail Drive Shaft through the loop.



Now gently position the top of the Tail Drive Shaft into its retaining hole located at the top of the frame and replace the Tail Drive Shaft Block retaining screws .



Thread the belt through the boom and adjust the belt tension in accordance with the guidelines in manual. Once belt tension has been properly adjusted, secure the boom.


That completes this Blade 400 Repair lessons. I hope you found the information helpful.

Below you will find some of the more common parts you will need for the above repairs.
To order a part, just click on the Buy Now.

If you did find this website helpful, please pass it on to others.

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